Olya
If you’re craving a journey that’s wilder, rougher, and truly off the beaten path, a self-drive road trip through Uganda might be just what you’re looking for.
Imagine trekking deep into Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in search of mountain gorillas, spotting tree-climbing lions in the remote Ishasha sector, scrambling through the tangled trails of Kibale Forest to keep up with lightning-fast chimpanzees, or cruising down the Kazinga channel, where hippos, elephants, and crocodiles crowd the shores.
Uganda is an untamed frontier with so much to offer – and with people so warm and welcoming , you’ll feel at home in every village that you pass through. A three-week road trip is the perfect way to experience Uganda, where dusty backroads slow you down, but the journey through wild landscapes, bustling villages, and endless banana, tea, and coffee farms makes every moment count. Read on for my favorite Ugandan highlights and an itinerary that took months of research to craft into an amazing three week road trip.
HIGHLIGHTS
- Gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
- Chimpanzee tracking in Kibale Forest
- Tree-climbing lions in the Ishasha sector
- Boat safari on the Kazinga channel in Queen Elizabeth National Park
- Walking, cycling, and night game safaris in Lake Mburo National Park
- Scenic views and relaxation at Lake Bunyonyi
- Mount Sabinyo hike in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park
THREE-WEEK ITINERARY
- Entebbe – 1 day
- Lake Mburo National Park – 3 days
- Lake Bunyonyi – 2 days
- Mgahinga Gorilla National Park – 2 days
- Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – 3 days
- Ishasha Sector – 2 days
- Queen Elizabeth National Park (Katunguru Gate) – 4 days
- Kibale National Park – 3 days
- Entebbe – 1 day
ENTEBBE
Most travelers arrive in Uganda through Entebbe International Airport. I recommend spending a night in Entebbe to recover from your journey so you can get on the road the next morning feeling rested.
LAKE MBURO NATIONAL PARK
Lake Mburo National Park is a great starting point for the Ugandan road trip. Traveling from Entebbe takes roughly five hours, so if you set off early, you should be at your lodge or camp just in time for a sundowner and even a night game drive – a perfect time for spotting leopards and other nocturnal wildlife. It was in this park that we were lucky to have our first sighting of a hunting leopard.
THINGS TO DO
WALKING AND CYCLING SAFARI
With no elephants and lions in residence, Lake Mburo National Park is considered safe enough for walking and cycling safaris. And let me tell you – being out in the open, on the same ground level as the wildlife, is a one-of-a-kind experience that no safari vehicle can match. Every cell in your body will buzz with excitement as you find yourself walking alongside giraffes and zebras. An armed park ranger will accompany you at all times to ensure your safety.
NIGHT GAME DRIVE
Being a relatively small park with around thirty leopards, Lake Mburo presents its visitors with a fair chance of spotting one, especially at night, when they become active. That said, I always keep my expectations low on game drives to avoid disappointment if there are no remarkable sightings. Sometimes, the thrill of the search alone is enough to create memories that last a lifetime. As every park ranger will tell you, this isn’t a zoo – every wildlife sighting is special and should be cherished.
WHERE WE STAYED
HYENA HILL LODGE
Coming from Entebbe, we loved our drive through Lake Mburo park on the way to Hyena Hill Lodge. Perched atop a hill, the lodge offers stunning views – perfect for sundowners. The rustic huts are both cozy and full of charm, giving you that immersive “one with nature” feeling. Conveniently located near the park’s western gate, the lodge is an ideal base for walking and cycling safaris, as well as game drives. Each day, our ride to the park took us through a small village, where local kids ran alongside the road, smiling, waving, and reaching out for high fives.
LAKE BUNYONYI
With 29 islands scattered across it, Lake Bunyonyi is a stunning destination and a perfect stopover between Lake Mburo and Mgahinga Gorilla national parks. If you’re up for an adventure, spending the night on one of the islands is a truly unique way to experience the lake. Since the final stretch to Lake Bunyonyi is rocky and slow-going, it’s best to leave Lake Mburo in the morning to ensure you reach your lodge before sunset. We got a little too ambitious, squeezing in a cycling tour on our last morning at Lake Mburo — which meant we ended up finishing the drive after dark. Not recommended! You really need full daylight to spot every rock and pothole if you want to keep your tires safe.
That said, our night boat ride to the island felt straight out of a movie — an unforgettable end to a long day.
THINGS TO DO
- Paddle a dugout canoe – Get on the water in a traditional canoe, just like the locals do
- Explore the islands – Visit noteworthy spots like Punishment Island, Bwama Island, and Bushara Island, each with its own unique story
- Go for a swim – Lake Bunyonyi is bilharzia-free (a parasite found in many other Ugandan lakes and rivers), and it has no crocodiles or hippos, making it one of the safest lakes to swim in Uganda.
MGAHINGA GORILLA NATIONAL PARK
In our experience, the road to Mgahinga Gorilla National Park was one of the most treacherous we encountered in Uganda — but also one of the most breathtaking. The lush green scenery and towering volcanoes in the background made the journey truly remarkable. We were frankly surprised our tires survived the sharp rocks all the way to our campsite by the main gate — it was a huge relief when we finally arrived.
THINGS TO DO
- Mount Sabinyo – If the idea of standing in three countries at once — Uganda, Rwanda, and Democratic Republic of the Congo — excites you, then this challenging hike up Mount Sabinyo has your name on it. The word “Sabinyo”, meaning “old man’s teeth”, perfectly captures the mountain’s jagged, tooth-like peaks. Standing tall at 3,669 meters or 12,037 feet above sea level, Mount Sabinyo is steep, muddy, and rugged, with wooden ladders in tricky areas. Reaching the summit takes 7 to 9 hours round-trip, depending on your pace and weather conditions. I’ll admit, there were moments during the climb when I seriously questioned both my decision and my physical ability to make it to the top. Was it worth it? Absolutely. Especially if you’re the kind of person who lives for extraordinary experiences — like standing in three countries at once.
- Gorilla trekking – Nyakagezi gorilla family is the only one residing in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. What makes this family unique is that it includes several silverbacks, whereas most families usually have only one.
- Golden monkey trekking – These mischievous monkeys are worth the trek! We couldn’t believe our luck when we came across a golden monkey during our Mount Sabinyo hike—especially since we’d been told you had to hike in a different part of the park to see them.
BWINDI IMPENETRABLE FOREST
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is world-renowned for its incredible gorilla trekking. Many wildlife photographers dream of capturing portraits of these gentle giants in Bwindi—often making it the centerpiece of their Ugandan road trip. The first thing I did when planning our itinerary was to secure our gorilla trekking permits, then book flights, a car rental, and accommodations. You can secure your permits directly through the Uganda Wildlife Authority if you’re in Kampala. However, since most of us cross continents to reach Uganda, it’s best to ask your tour company, car rental agency, or lodge to arrange the permits for you. I knew I wanted to capture magnificent portraits of gorillas; what I didn’t know was how much I would come to love these creatures. We spent several hours trekking through dense rainforest, scaling steep hills until we finally reached the gorilla family assigned to our group. They were calm and unbothered, acknowledging our presence while peacefully going about their day—picking leaves, the youngsters playing, and the silverback dozing in the bushes. The one hour spent in their presence felt incredibly precious, forever seared into my memory.
THINGS TO DO
- Gorilla trekking
- Birdwatching and nature hikes
- Visit Batwa pygmy people
ISHASHA SECTOR
In the southwestern part of Queen Elizabeth National Park, near the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo, lies the remote Ishasha sector, where lions are famed for their rare tree-climbing habits. Traveling from Bwindi, the Ishasha sector marks your first gateway into the park. While large herds of elephants and buffalo roam the plains of Ishasha, it’s the sight of lions sprawled across the branches of a tall fig tree that draws travelers from around the world. Spending two nights at Ishasha should give you a fair chance of spotting lions in the trees, especially with updates from park rangers on their current whereabouts and directions. Seeing them on both days of our stay was a real stroke of luck, made even more exciting when the lioness and her cubs decided to climb down the tree in the rain.
THINGS TO DO
- Game drives
- Search for tree-climbing lions
QUEEN ELIZABETH PARK (KATUNGURU GATE)
As we made our way toward the Katungura area of Queen Elizabeth Park, we took the road that followed the park’s edge, allowing us to get to our next destination faster. With only occasional wildlife and barely any other vehicles passing by, the road felt eerily quiet — especially being this close to the border with the DRC, where we couldn’t help but recall a tragic accident involving a tourist couple and their guide who were attacked by Congolese rebels in the area. In the end, the journey turned out to be fine but we definitely felt a sense of relief when we finally reached the first village.
THINGS TO DO
Boat safari on the Kazinga channel
Connecting Lake Edward and Lake George, the Kazinga channel stretches for 32 kilometers (about 20 miles), its green shores teeming with wildlife. Having been spoiled by countless elephant and hippo sightings on the Chobe river in Botswana, I didn’t expect much from the Kazinga channel — but boy, was I wrong! As we floated down the channel, we encountered large herds of elephants, pods of hippos, crocodiles, hundreds of birds, and plenty of other wildlife. We had such an incredible time that we ended up taking a boat safari every single day of our stay. Our favorite boat safari was just outside Mweya Lodge — fewer people, gorgeous stretch of the channel. As we waited for the boat, we sat at the lodge with coffee in hand, soaking in the stunning waterfront views.
Self-drive safari
One of the most unusual things we saw during a self-drive in this part of Queen Elizabeth National Park was a pride of lions resting in a candelabra tree. These thorny, cactus-like trees grow throughout the park, giving it a distinct look. There’s one tree in particular that the lions seem to love most — ask the park rangers for directions, as it can be tricky to find on your first visit. Our first stunning leopard sighting at sunset took place along Leopard loop, an area well known for encounters with these elusive cats. On our way back to the gate, we were lucky to end up behind a slow-moving safari vehicle — their guide was clearly on the lookout for leopards as we entered Leopard loop. As their vehicle stopped, we finally noticed this beautiful creature resting in the bush, its coat shimmering in the last rays of sunset. Within seconds, other vehicles appeared, but the leopard stayed put just long enough for us to marvel at it before slipping into the dark.
WHERE WE STAYED
ENGIRI GAME LODGE AND CAMPSITE – This was easily one of our favorite stays on this road trip! Let me start with their famous visiting elephant, John, who usually showed up around breakfast and dinner. We would hear him munching on trees outside our tent, and he always made a stop by the kitchen, expecting a few fruit and vegetable scraps from the chef. Getting to be so close to such a magnificent elephant every morning and night became one of my fondest memories from Uganda.
*Equator crossing: Be sure to stop for a photo at the Equator monument on Ntungamo–Katunguru Road — it’s a great way to wrap up your Queen Elizabeth National Park safari with one more unique experience. The monument is only 11 km from the park’s main Kasenyi Gate.
KIBALE FOREST
Following our once-in-a-lifetime encounter with the mountain gorillas in Bwindi, we found ourselves surprisingly even-tempered upon reaching Kibale, home to chimpanzees and the final national park on our road trip. We thought it was simply impossible to top the gorilla experience, yet there we were, getting ready for an early morning trek through the forest. As it turned out, Uganda had another surprise in store for us. With chimps screaming and hooting all around, and loud rustling high in the trees, Kibale truly felt like Planet of the Apes. We practically had to sprint to keep up with the lightning-fast chimps. In one instant, a chimp would be on the ground; the next, it would rocket up a tall tree, screaming and leaping from branch to branch. Being in their presence was exhilarating and undeniably a one-of-a-kind experience.
THINGS TO DO
- Chimpanzee trekking – This is the main reason why every traveler comes to Kibale. Chimps are highly intelligent, which makes them fascinating to watch. Like the gorilla experience, the chimpanzee trekking is well organized by the Ugandan park authorities. Visitors are split into small groups, each led by a park ranger and a guide. Unless you choose the chimpanzee habituation experience which gives you four hours in their presence, a standard chimpanzee experience lasts one hour only.
- Birdwatching – We ran into quite a few bird watchers in and around Kibale National Park. You could spot them everywhere — binoculars in hand, ears tuned to every call, excitedly jotting down notes or ticking off species in their birding books and apps. As I learned from the birdwatchers, Kibale is a bird paradise, home to more than 370 recorded species.
- Coffee and tea farms – The rolling hills around Kibale are dotted with picturesque coffee and tea farms, some of which welcome visitors for tours and tastings.
WHERE WE STAYED
ISUNGA LODGE – We loved everything about our stay at Isunga Lodge. It offers sweeping views of the rainforest, a refreshing swimming pool, delicious food, and cozy private bungalows scattered across the property. The lodge owners are a lovely Scottish couple who have clearly poured their hearts into the place — you can feel their care and attention in every little detail.
ENTEBBE
Our road trip ended in Entebbe where most travelers would catch their international flights. I budgeted for one night in Entebbe so we could take it easy on our drive back to the city and, most importantly, not worry about missing our flight.
THINGS TO DO
- Mabamba Swamp – Located along the northern shores of Victoria Lake, Mabamba Swamp draws birdwatchers from around the world in search of the Shoebill Stork — a large, prehistoric-looking bird, the “holy grail” of Uganda’s birds.
- Kampala – If you’d like to experience Uganda’s fast-paced city life, Kampala is just a 30-minute drive from Entebbe. We, however, chose to slow down on our last day and spent a lazy afternoon at Entebbe’s Sailing Club, right on the edge of Lake Victoria.
WHERE WE STAYED
MUTI ENTEBBE – A cozy small lodge with a lovely garden and hammocks, only ten minute drive from the airport. Their restaurant often attracted UN staff — an international mix of people who shared captivating stories about their work across Uganda and nearby countries. Like at every other lodge and camp on our road trip, we felt welcome and cared for.
Uganda — what an incredible road trip destination, filled with unique experiences, stunning parks, and some of the friendliest people you’ll ever meet. In three weeks, we saw so much of the country, yet countless places are still calling us back — Kidepo, Murchison Falls, Sipi Falls, and beyond. We already know we’ll be back in Uganda one day, perhaps combining it with Tanzania and Kenya for one epic East African road trip. You can never have enough African adventures in one lifetime!
